Minot (say Why not)

Minot Public Library, 4:35 on the edge of Rocky Mountain Time. Charge for use of the computer, $2.00. Everything else, priceless!

Sometimes the wind is your friend, and today it was mine! I made the 73 miles into Minot quite easily with a good tailwind most of the way. Stopped at a small cafe along the way for breakfast, and as seems to be the way here, half the town was in the same cafe enjoying a leisurely breakfast and a lot of banter about seeds, "pieces of ground", harvests, the weather. I in my bright yellow shirt and shorts was quite an interruption to the normal flow of things I'm sure. Got to meet the former superintendent of schools, now retired. In this small town about 15 years ago they had 350 students in their K-12 school. Now they're down in the 90's. North Dakota is experiencing rural flight--to its cities and beyond. A major (felt) school problem is sports! So few kids, so many miles to travel for games, and the price of gas have all created perfect storm conditions to decimate their beloved sports. By the way, baseball is big, big, big here. Even the smallest town has a well kept ball field and I have seen them used a lot.

Did you know the western mile is longer than the eastern mile? Well it is! Today, again, I spied grain elevators on the horizon, a sure sign the next town is coming up. They look like they're 1, maybe 2 miles away. In fact they're 6 or 7. And when you feel like you're close enough to reach out and touch them, they're still a mile away!

Am staying at a motel right across from the North Dakota State Fair which wraps up this weekend. I'll check it out tonight. Cally and Chris---Keith Urban (hope I got the name right) was at the fair last weekend! I've rented a car that I'll pick up out at the airport tomorrow and will be on my way with 4 wheels to Great Falls Montana and then on the Lewis and Clark bike route.

Love to all. I'll see if I can get pictures transferred to CD this weekend as I go 4 wheeling (meaning not on the bike!) On to Montana!!!

Grain Elevator Capitol of the North Dakota

Location: Harvey Public Library. Temperature about 92. Wind direction: out of the Northwest 10-20 mph. Direction of travel: Northwest on Highway 52 (unfortunately). Sometimes you win with the wind, sometimes you lose. Today I lost big time!

Will again stay at a city campground. Haven't been there yet but the librarian tells me it has facilities, hookups (like I need them), and showers (like yes, I do need one of those!). These city parks are a great thing. I guess the history is that in many North Dakota towns the railroad came first and then the towns sprung up along the rail lines. City parks were part of the original layout of the towns, I guess to facilitate travel. All services are free or you leave a donation. As far as I can tell there don't seem to be problems with abuse of the system. You just can't stay more than a week--then your welcome wears out!

So I'm poking around in a cemetery this morning, taking a break for food, drink, and shade (cemeteries always have trees, a rare and valued resource along the highways) when I look up and realize I'm staring at a herd of buffalo! There must have been 30 or so, from babies to behemoths! Fortunately there was a fence between us. After a few pictures (buffalo love to pose and show off their manly beards) I went back to checking gravestones. As I examined dates, this thing, this creature, this jerry-rigged cross between a rabbit and a kangaroo darts out from behind the stone, does a few quick jumps and right angle turns and other diversionary tactics (as though he needed them with me!) and scooted out to the "wild side" with the buffalo. My first encounter with the much feared western jackrabbit!

Had a great experience visiting the little town of Manfred on my way into Harvey. You can't see Manfred from the highway, it's hidden behind the rise where the rail tracks run, but Manfred is a nearly deserted town that a local group is trying to preserve. It was eerie, but in a good way. A wonderful lady whose grandparents settled the town showed me around and explained some of Manfred's history. Within the square block that makes up the center of this nearly extant town are 4 elderly houses in various states of disrepair, a falling in hotel, a brick bank built in 1906 I believe, and the old dry goods store, and an abandoned grain elevator (there's an operational one just up the road). I have pictures. In this part of North Dakota most towns were founded about a hundred or so years ago. Many of them have seen the life times of only 2-3 generations and are now being abandoned as younger folks move to where the jobs are and farming becomes more mechanized and large scale. The pictures my hostess showed me spoke of a vibrant time of large family gatherings, hard work, and optimism for the future. I wish the "founders" every success in preserving this bit of history. Corinne, a special challenge to you. Can you find anything on the internet about Manfred North Dakota. Good luck!

My best to all. I hope tomorrow the winds will be kinder as I head toward Minot. If they are, I may be in Minot tomorrow evening. If not, it will take two days. From there I'll plan my travels to western Montana to resume biking there.

Well greetings all from Carrington Public Library, Carrington ND. Yesterday covered 93 miles to Cooperstown (where they have the Minor League hall of fame :) and today a more leisurely 50 miles to Carrington.

Yesterday! In all my life I have never, ever, ever seen or been in a storm like the one I experienced. I was in the middle of prairie country with no visible farms, power lines, side roads when the sky grew blacker. And then blacker. I pedaled furiously to try to get to something, anything that might offer shelter. And then it got really, really black as I reached a dirt road that lead off the highway about a quarter mile to a farm. I never made the 1/4 mile on my bike. I couldn't stay on it. As I approached the farm I held on for dear life and barely, I mean just barely, made it to an open metal barn. Then the heavens broke loose. Sideways rain and then hail. Wind that I thought would blow the barn over. And it all happened so suddenly.

Which all brings me to the Wizard of Oz. You know the opening scene when the tornado hits. It has always seemed contrived, how quickly the weather changes in the show. Well it isn't. That's what the weather does here. One minute you're safe and the next you're in wind that makes you want to climb in a cellar or throw your arms around a flag pole. And that whole deal with the shimmering Oz appearing after their long walk down the yellow brick wall. Well out here as you approach a town the first thing you see is these humongous metal grain elevators. They shimmer in the distance, arising from the prairie like some lone sky scraper. You think you're just a mile from town, but actually you're six! And these elevators do have the look of a mystical apparition. Anyway, I understand Dorothea a whole lot better than I used to! I get where she's coming from!

Yeah, I know I'm in ND not Kansas. Am headed to Minot from whence I'm thinking I might get on a train, bus, or rent a car to get to Great Falls or thereabouts. I've heard nothing but bad things about eastern Montana, a hostile and harsh environment, physically and otherwise. Towns and water stops are few and far between. Part of me doesn't want to interrupt the trip this way. But a bigger piece of me says that challenges are good but to avoid unnecessary risks. If I were 20 years younger or traveling with others my choice might be different. And I'm very anxious to see (and climb?) the Rocky and Sawtooth Mountains.

Anyway, feel very good. Will camp out tonight in another city park. All people along the way have been great and full of stories and wisdom and foolishness to share. My love to all. Hi Carly, enjoy those blueberries and beans while they're still there. Hi Barry in Luther, I will call. Hey, Cally--you would just love meeting all these people along the way (the biking part I'm not so sure!). Diane, hope your summer is going well and know that I am safe. Betsy, hope the news on your dad is good and say hello to Brook for me and give him a hug (if it's not against the rules!)

Morning In Fargo Tuesday, July 25th

Thank you Corinne for creating the map! I'll keep you updated with my stops along the way. Am at a coffee shop on Broadway and 1st Avenue using their computer, but again no software to support pictures. The sun is up and out, 6:45 a.m. Camped last night in a city campground, Lindenwood, along the Red River. Very, very nice--meaning showers and no mosquitoes. I guess they're not allowed west of the Red River. Arrived early enough yesterday to take care of some chores: haircut, laundromat, chain replacement at bike shop (also bought a pair of spandex pants--for emergency use only!--that means cold weather in case you're wondering), library, post office, phone calls. Fargo is a "happening" place. Lots of energy (translated: money) here with reconstruction going on and many nice restaurants, coffee shops, bookstores, galleries--sort of like a Montpelier, times 10 because there are a hundred thousand people here, on the edge of the prairie. Think often of Margie and Normie, you remember, from the movie "Fargo."

This is a big, big country, I can tell you from personal experience. And it's about to get a whole lot bigger! I head out into North Dakota in a few moments from the corner of 8th Avenue North and Broadway. My love to all. Corinne, again thanks. Lowell

Map of entire route

The route marked on this map is fairly accurate from Montpelier, Vermont to Fargo, North Dakota. From that point to Astoria, Oregon it's just how the program connected the two points. Still, a good approximation of the route.

Fargo!

No time to post pictures. Have a 15 minute restriction and most time is used up. Many, many adventures. Am at Fargo public Library. Will camp in city park tonight. All is well. The country is very big. And it just got bigger! North Dakota lies ahead. Love to all. Lowell

Maps to date - very approximate!

Here are some maps to try and let you better visualize progress being made. There is a great new tool on Mapquest.com "Need directions beyond Point A to PointB?"




















These lists of towns seem to go down, while the maps go up... so first list is for bottom map.

A: Montpelier, VT left 6/26/06
B: Grand Isle, VT
C: Plattsburgh, NY.
D: Malone, NY arrived
E: Massena, NY
F: Waddington, NY
G: Ogdensburg, NY
H: Morristown, NY
I: Grindstone, NY

A: Grindstone, NY
B: Clayton, NY
C: Wolfe Island, Ontario
D: Kingston, Ontario

A: Kingston, Ontario
B: Toronto, Ontario
C: Burlington, Ontario
D: Sarnia, Ontario

A: Sarnia, Ontario
B: Port Huron, MI
C: Capac, MI
D: Brown City, MI
E: Bay City, MI
F: Clare, MI
G: Ludington, MI

A: Ludington, MI
B: Manitowoc, WI
C: Shawano, WI
D: Wausau, WI
E. Eau Claire, WI
F. Chippewa Falls, WI

This will have to be real quick. Am in Little Falls, Minnesota, on the banks of the big Muddy in a beautiful library but with little time until closing. I'll just try to post some pictures. Oops, can't do it the computer doesn't have the software needed. Ugh!

Anyway, have lots of good pictures and will post them soon. I'm feeling fine. Should be in North Dakota the beginning of the week. Met two great guys this morning on their way east. Scott, a firefighter from Portland OR and Mike from NJ and planning to attend Sterling in Craftsbury next year. Mike was kind enough to adjust my derailleur (he's a bike mechanic--nice guy to meet on the road) and it has been working beautifully. Scott offered, nearly insisted that my brothers and I visit his family place in Hood River, OR. We may just take him up on it. Did I mention that I met Blanche Pedajiski's (I know I wrecked the spelling on that one!) sister in law back in Chippewa Falls. Blanche is a director of the Stern Center and many of our Berlin teachers benefitted from taking the TIME for teachers course with her and other instructors a few years back. Blanche has been a very dynamic and well informed force for reading instruction improvement in the state. As they say....it's a small world...speaking of which, I heard that song chiming as I rested in a park today and then did something I haven't done since I was 10 (no, not make a corn silk ciggie)--I bought an ice cream from an ice cream truck! Seems this retired entrepreneur had retrofitted a UPS truck with a couple of freezers and a generator and made his own ice cream truck. Hmmm....how would that go in Barre Montpelier?

Have to finish up. Love to all. Diane, it was nice to hear from you. If you go to church this weekend (and even if you don't) please say a prayer for the safety of all the cyclists out on the roads this summer. Thank you. Smarty Pants Yertle

High Miles

Today was a beautiful day (well, most of it) for cycling. Got up at 5:00, McDonalds by 5:30 and on the bike at 6:00. Temperature 58° felt positively cool. It did warm up considerably by the afternoon (90°?), but the winds today were variable, the terrain not too hilly and I managed 92 miles arriving here in Chippewa Falls at 3:00. The change in the weather more than compensated for the additional miles and, though tired, I feel much better than I did at the end of any of the last 3 days with shorter miles.
So what do I eat out here? Almost whatever I can find at an opportune time! This morning began with an egg mcmuffin, coffee, and orange juice at MickeyD. I stopped at about 10:00 for another breakfast of eggs, hashbrowns (real greasy!), toast and coffee. Since then I've had a couple of Sobe green teas (I glug them down), lots and lots of water, and some cashews that I carry with me. I've stopped quite a bit at Subways because the food is inexpensive and I can get the veggies I crave and don't have when I order a veggie delight. All in all, I'm not too fussy about what I eat as long as there's enough of it! I think Wendy's or pizza is on the menu tonight as they are near my abode.

I write from the Chippewa library. This place is busy. Had to wait for a half hour to get on a computer. The friendly folks here opened their locked garage for me so I could stow my bike safely. I always get nervous about it when I stop! It's been a great piece of machinery thus far. All handmade in America! Thank you Charlie for helping me pick out such a reliable steed and for tuning it up so well. I've stopped once at a bike shop to have the chain cleaned and the derailler tuned. Big mistake. Have you ever entered into a transaction with someone and right away known you shouldn't do it, but you do it anyway? At the bike shop, I could tell right away they didn't know much about bikes. The owner said his 14 year old assistant could get to it in a couple of hours. When I came back, the chain wasn't clean (they didn't have any cleaner!) so he'd wiped it with a rag (to little avail). The derailler was worse than when I brought it in, though I've since adjusted it adequately. Be thankful for such a wonderful bike shop as Onion River Sports in Montpelier where the folks there really know their business.
Sorry no pictures! Will try to get some posted tomorrow.
Linda, glad you have lots of laughs! I do get myself into some pretty ludicrous situations! Paige, thanks for the compliment, but I know you have two young kids and get plenty of exercise walking around the neighborhood with them and being an attentive mom. Bravo! We are all so lucky to have our health. I saw a show on TV last night (yes, I do watch the tube!)--an interview with Michael J. Fox. He has an amazing attitude toward his illness and toward life--very courageous and thankful that his disease has given him perspective on himself and his relationship to the world. His disease (Parkinsons) has helped him to be thankful for all the years of health he enjoyed, and to treasure the gifts he still possesses.
Love to all. Off to Osceola tomorrow on the Minnesota border.

From the Heart of America's Other Dairy Land

These folks take sports seriously! Berlin? Montpelier? Sunset on Lake Michigan

Ludington from the ferry
Brewery in Manitowoc in the land where beer is king!

What is the meaning of the three letter word "hot?" It's been in the upper 90's for the past 3 days, a stiff wind continues from the west and southwest and progress is painful! I type tonight from a motel in Wausau, yes the one you see on commercials. Smack dab (now where does that expression come from?) in the middle of Wisconsin. Tomorrow will be less hot (in the mid 80's). The challenge will be finding a place to stay. I see no campgrounds or motels between here and Eau Claire, my next major town which unfortunately is 90 plus miles away. Oh well, all part of the adventure! Stay tuned.
Met an inspirational fellow today name of Leland Carroll. I met Leland while biking this morning from Shawano to Wausau. Leland is aiming to bike 7000 miles this year! He's well on his way toward his goal having begun with 19 biking days in January. Rides 20-30 miles per day and more on weekends when he gets together with this buddies from Shawano for a longer ride. Leland worked at a 4 wheel drive shop and raised 10 kids. Now here's the kicker---Leland is 72 years old, born in 1934. Part American Indian and part German. (There's a large Indian reservation just north of here.) Leland biked with me a short way to get me started on his suggested local route (always better than the map route), and I asked him to go slow, for my sake. Leland, I hope you get to read this. I know you don't like computers too much but maybe that daughter of yours will help you get on the site!

My prayer for the day, that the wind abates and the temperature drops! Otherwise I'm a cooked goose. For some reason I'm reminded of the advice my cross country coach gave me in high school. Lowell, he said, the good Lord is going to run have this race for you. Don't you forget it. All you have to do is pick them up and the Lord will put them down! Love to all. Lowell, in the heart of Wisconsin's dairyland.

Ludington and Waiting for----The Badger!

Camille and Lowell in Ludington

"Oh What a Beautiful Morning" Missouri style


Alicia and Barry Campbell in Luther Outside the bakery/restaurant/farmstand with bikers Bert and John

Just had a wonderful lunch with Camille and Cyndi in Ludington. Afterward we went to the local Rite Aid (no wonder kids can't spell!) and with the help of Cyndi (oh, I hate to admit this!) burned pictures onto a CD. Yeah! Thank you Camille and Cyndi for driving an hour north to spend some time together. And Camille, I'll be watching for your "Berlin Enquirer" in the fall. Camille has a whole new genre of writing to explore! And Sam, thank you for the suggestion that I burn the pictures. You're right, makes things much easier and now I can reuse the memory disk.

I continue to meet the most wonderful folks! Alicia and Barry saved me! Rolling into Luther (which, by the way, has every denomination of church except Lutheran-go figure that one) I was going into an area that was off my Adventure Cycling Maps for a distance. Barry and Alicia pulled up in the middle of main street in their little town (and I do mean middle--where the stripes are) parked, hailed me over, asked me where I was going and was I lost (do I always look lost?) and began giving me directions. Thinking it might be wise to pull over to let traffic by I suggested same, but Barry insisted we stay right where we are. "In Luther you can park in the middle of Main Street and visit. The only people who honk are out of towners." He was right. Most cars went right around us to the left and right and only a few, nonLutherites I'm sure, gave us scowls. Barry's directions were impeccable but of course I blew the first turn I was to take at the end of Main Street. Turns out Barry and Alicia were keeping an eye out for me, saw my error, and came to my rescue. The rest was a breeze--well, as much of a breeze as 17 more miles can be at the end of a very hot day. 86 miles and 87 the day before. Michigan roads, and drivers have been very kind. And the people, well they're just super!
Met Bert and John this morning passing through Freesoil (history question, who knows where that name comes from) and had just discovered that the restaurant I had intended to stop at for breakfast after 20 miles was shut down! Ugh! These two on their "bents" come riding up and invite me to breakfast with them at a wonderful restaurant slightly off my planned route just a couple of miles down the road. Bert and John are from the Chicago area, and Betsy, John makes an annual pilgrimage to Woodstock to see "Ground Hog Day." Your kind of guy or what?

Have purchased my ticket for this evening to take the "Badger" a 420' ferry across Lake Michigan, a distance of about 60 miles. Costs about $1 per mile. Have reservations in Manitowoc, WI at a motel near the ferry landing as we don't arrive until about 11:00 tonight. My best to all. Hope the weather is right for the Schoberpalooza and the guys running club tomorrow, Saturday. Love to all. Lowell

Smarty Pants Yertle Reaches Leroy

Yes, I sit in the Leroy library at 2:00 on a very, very hot afternoon. (Find Leroy on a map now will ya! That ought to test your cartographical skills.) This is a avery nice place to be! Only have a dial up connection and no USB so again no pictures. Yesterday rode 87 miles and arrived at Herrick Campground just outside of Clare, Michigan, about dead center in the state. Nice tail wind for much of the day, level roads, and the last 30 miles were on the Pere Marquette rail trail. The trail was all paved, as wide as a traffic lane, bathroom and rest stops, and towns with stores along the way. Today's ride will take me to Wolf Lake, near Luther and about 30 miles from Ludington where I catch the ferry across Lake Michigan and hopefully will meet up with Camille and Cyndi Johnson for lunch. Talked with them last night. Aren't cell phones wonderful! How did Lewis and Clark survive without......

Met two young male bikers headed east from the west coast yesterday morning--first others doing a crossing. The looked to be 20 something, carrying more gear than I and said they were averaging 80-90 miles per day. Ah, youth! They're on a schedule to get to the east coast as they need to get back to work soon. Ah, retirement! Also had a car pull up next to me outside Bay City and the driver yelled out "where ya coming from and where ya goin'" and when I told him, still riding, he replied "do you need anything for your cycle? I'd be glad to help if you do." What a generous, unsolicited offer. I didn't, so on we both went.

One negative. I lost my watch! Left it in the shower at the campground and when I realized it was missing about an hour later (well how do I know I didn't have a watch!) and went back to the shower, it was gone. Someone had taken it. Well....next one I get will be one I can afford to lose!

I miss having someone to ride with! All the little incidentals of the day--decisions, encounters, thoughts, jokes--funny and otherwise---even feelings (Mr. Sensitive Seventies just poked his way into my consciousness) would be so nice to share with somemone else. Maybe that's the way it is in all of life and is the tide that binds us in friendships and other relationships. But riding alone is cool too. It isn't very often that any of us get the chance to be on our own for any extended time.

Thanks for the comments. Yo, Carly Barley, enjoy those blueberries, raspberries and peas with Emily and Laura. Make sure the fence is unplugged or it may ruin your appetite! Baker, you're going under the knife on my birthday! Is that legal? Cally, the rain will be gone by Friday and I predict you will have hot weather over the weekend. (I read in the paper that the only night (Wednesday) of the last 6 I spent in a motel, it set a record for rainfall for the date--about 4 inches! My love to all. Back on the bike for the last few miles to Wolf Lake. By the way, in case you don't know it (although most of you are smarter than me so you probably do), doughnuts for breakfast (and nothing else) doesn't work very well. This morning I thought I'd be like one of those vehicles that burns vegetable oil. I made it to lunch time but ooohh....

Yertle the Turtle Catches a Tailwind!

Trail section at right in western Ontario.

You know how hiking folks eventually "acquire" a trail name. Mine is Yertle the Turtle. It came to me a couple of days back as I biked along a country road in Ontario and 4 "twenty something" cyclists zoomed by me like I was standing still on their ultra light bikes. Yes, Yertle fits, slow but steady. Have put in a 78 and 72 mile days recently. It takes me a long time but, so far, I've gotten there.

I've written so much the last few days. I'll save it for the book! Suffice to say I've met wonderful people all along the way. About half my meals have been offered to me and I've been camping out since the Enid experience. The night before last I experienced my own 4th of July in the comfort of my tent. I was awakened about 1:00 a.m. to an incredible thunder storm. It made me wonder if the stays on my tent were fiber glass or aluminum. And how do lightning rods work anyway? The rain pounded the tent , but the next morning I happily discovered the inside to be nearly completely dry.

Getting back to the U.S. at Sarnia was a bit of a challenge. There's only one place to cross the Saint Clair River that forms the boundary with Michigan. That way involved crossing a bridge approached by a restricted access highway: no pedestrians, no bikes! I had to hitch. Removed all panniers and my front and rear bags in hopes of making the bike easier to load should anyone stop. Traffic was light and I needed a truck or a van to load the bike. After about 20 minutes a van pulled up. George and Sue, two truckers by trade, were kind enough to give me a lift. They had crossed over earlier in the day to stock up on booze before heading south to Texas to start a new life. They had not much good to say about Michigan--especially the economy, the weather, and the attitudes. They own their own Freightliner and can operate out of almost anywhere. They live, for the next two weeks anyway, in Capac where I was headed. They offered to give me a lift there but I nobly :) declined to keep the trip honest! In the end the gave me a big box of Planter's peanut brittle (the best, they say) and I took their picture before parting in Port Huron. Nice folks!
Many, many vignettes such as above to share. I love, love, love the midwestern accents. I've met man Marges of Fargo!

I, like other travelers have been, am amazed by the generosity people have for strangers--0nce they feel safe. Oftentimes you need to make the first move--play with the dog, ask for directions, tell them where you're headed--and then people have a real desire to be kind. Speaking of kindness--I realize it was lacking, entirely, in my comments about Enid. While what I said about my disappointment with the accommodations was true, Enid herself was delightful--eccentric, but delightful. And eccentricity is what makes people interesting. But to set the record straight, Enid's accomodations would probably delight some who are looking for something "off beat"--and in this world of franchises that is not to be undervalued-- and she herself was engaging and kind. So, from Mr. Spandex Smarty pants--my apologies, Enid.

Writing today from a library in Brown City, Michigan. Headed toward Bay City and Luddington over the next few days. Camille and Cyndi, I will call as I get closer. Mr. (or Mrs.) tech assistant, thanks for the advice. I love your comments. Cally, only one more day!!! Laura and Emily--eat those blueberries and raspberries. Hi Kyle and Luke. Yes, Brenda, you could try a leash! Chris stay in touch. Betsy, I love you. My love to all. Lowell. p.s. The Michigan skeeters are bigger and hungrier than their eastern cousins!

The "Beaches" and on to Oakville

As I write am in the Oakville library. Very nice folks here (translated, that means they let me bring my bike inside where I can keep an eye on it!) No USB again! Spent most of yesterday navigating the streets and bikeways of greater Toronto. I've found getting into Toronto from the east is a challenge, getting out this morning from the west was a snap and very, very lovely.

After many miscues and much slow going riding on sidewalks (a lot), pushing the bike (a little) and trying to follow bike trails in parks that all seemed to turn to dirt or dead end, I made it to Queen Street, a very tony section of town. Numerous bike shops, coffee shops on every corner, trendy clothiers, sidewalk cafes, wonderful fresh food stores, even a Ben and Jerry's. I didn't want to eat alone in a restaurant so I bought an apple, banana, carrot/ginseng (for the memory cells, you know), bread, yogurt, and salted cashews and had a scrumptious picnic in Kew Park. Kew is home to a jazz festival later this month and has beautifully landscaped grounds, flowers galore, pesky pigeons, a ball field, play ground and much, much more. This section is called the Beaches with most of the commercial activity along Queen Street. I stayed the night a couple of blocks off Queen at Enid's B and B. Enid is English, about 70 I'd say, and as whacky as clay is dirt (now where did that come from?--too much ginseng!) I have pictures of the interior you wouldn't believe. Like something out of Alice in Wonderland. Unfortunately Enid forgot to give me towels, there was no drinking glass, the shower was painted totally black, and the cold water didn't work. Ouch, that shower was a scorcher!

Libraries. What treasures! Arriving, I stopped at the Taylor Library about 10 blocks from Enid's to inquire about accomodations, having seen none on my many hours of pedaling into Toronto. They in turn called the Beaches Library where I was headed anyway and told them I'd be coming. When I got there, the librarian had downloaded descriptions of 5-6 possibilities for accomodations and gave me directions and an information booklet about the area. Unfortunatley, Enid's page was on top and I was not very thorough. Well, so it goes.

It's getting on 2:30 in the afternoon. Will head to Burlington (not Vermont!) and will be at the head of the lake. Weather is beautiful. I have tons of pictures that I will make into a slide show. Right Corinne? Betsy, what's the picture capacity of the 2 memory sticks in the pouch? Help, I need a technical advisor!

Hi Kyle! Be good to your mom. Hi Emily. You get to have all of the blueberries this year. Enjoy. Love to all....Lowell

Toronto-Home of the Blue Jays

This is too cool to believe! I'm in Toronto in my undies (well, almost) at a laundramat doing some wash that badly, badly needed attention and the have free internet access! Whoeee.

Amazing how many people here look Asian. As I rode a bike path around huge nuclear facility, many employees with ID tags were out for walks. I'd say about 90% Asian. Canada, at least this part of it, is growing and becoming more diversified. Sight of the day: a gargantuan wind mill outside the nuclear plant. Made any eerie sound as the blades circled. Actually looked quite beautiful in a field by the water.

Tim, you have many adventures awaiting you out there. For a biker like you this would be a piece of cake, at least so far!

Cally, so glad to hear that your tests came back negative and that you survived that other intrusive exam! Keep Charlie organized but give him room to experiment! Glad you all had fun on the 4th.

Very sad departure from Fran and John yesterday. It was sucha gas biking with them. What great spirits. What laughter. I miss them!

Have you ever done a lot of work and accomplished very little? Have you ever ridden a lot and not gotten very far. That's my experience today. Yesterday did 70 miles, much of it through beautiful terrain with spectacular views of farm country with the back drop of Lake Ontario. But all into a head wind. Today I've meandered on bike paths, ridden a lot on sidewalks, walked my bike even, gotten a bit lost once, followed maps with "proposed" trails that don't yet exist, and all in all may only modest forward progress. But it ain't over yet! Wait till those clothes are dry!

Betsy, thanks for taking care of the garden. I miss the good veggies. Have tried to be reasonable though about my consumption of "road food." Love to all. No USB port. No picture again today, but believe me, I've taken many!

July 3, Off to Bath and strange dude Jeremy

Sorry I haven't had a chance to update lately but have just been in the wrong places. And in the Port Hope (go ahead, google it--great little town, even has a Nuclear reactor!) library here, the USB ports are blocked so no pictures today, sorry!
On July 3rd John, Fran and I set out and arrived in Bath at the end of the day. It's about 20 miles west of Kingston, a beautiful and fairly large city. Our route today took us from Grindstone by boat to Clayton, by bike to Wolfe Point, by ferry to Wolfe Island, across Wolfe Island by bike, and over to Kingston by ferry. Wolfe Island is Canadian and we had to pass through customs before disembarking the ferry. Across Wolfe is 7 miles, nice tail wind (for once!) to an excellent bakery where we enjoyed lunch treats. Met a character named Jeremy who was biking to Kingston to see a travel agent to make arrangements to fly to New Foundland for hiking adventures. Jeremy is a solitary guy, very gregarious, a retired fifth grade teacher from Pulaski, New York, who grew to hate teaching in his last few years (my bet, his students walked all over him). He has run 100 marathons (rivaling Newton Baker), visited every US state except Oklahoma and Kansas and all of the provinces except NF. He seems to have been on every bike tour imaginable, including the Five Borough (he noticed my do-rag) which he has done 5 times, even though "it can't compare to the Montreal tour." His life is scheduled around races every weekend and travel plans. Actually, much of his travel is to get to races. Never married. Probably couldn't find anyone to keep up with him. He seemed to have organized his life with a frenetic schedule to avoid dealing with personal issues. But who am I to judge!:)

Kingston is a beautiful city rich in history and much bigger than I'd thought. A lovely fog with breaks of sunlight enchanted us there. We found a bike shop on Princess Street where they took me right in and determined there was no problem with my front rim being out of true (I'd been experiencing a thump, thump, thump) but that the tire hadn't seated properly on the rim. An owner operator error--argh! Me again, the cause of another problem! No charge at all for his troubles. Stopped at the bank to get some Canadian money at a bank ATM.

July 1. We're on Grindstone

So what is Grindstone you ask? A beautiful island among the Thousand Islands (actually, there are 1800) in the St. Lawrence. We're staying with John and Fran and last night boated over for dinner with some friends of theirs. Came back on the boat, about a 30 minute ride, with Fran navigating with only the light of the moon to light our way. Fran has been coming here since she was a little girl 45 years ago and taught school here in a one room school house which we visited today with 15 K-6 students. We're staying in the "guest house" pictured here. This morning Fran told us a frightening story of a time back in the 80s when she and her husband lived here through the winter. About March everyone goes a bit stir crazy here so she, her husband, and another couple headed into Clayton at night to enjoy some company and good cheer. Along the way they hit an iceberg, the boat flipped and promptly sank, and in the most frigid of waters Fran managed to swim to shore. Of course they all were in winter clothing for the crossing so it was quite an ordeal. The other man got his leg entangled in the line from the gas tank and he nearly drowned. Eventually all four made it to shore, but what an ordeal.
The island is a gem. And there are many of these gems gracing the waters leading into Lake Ontario. So this weekend we rest and on Sunday Betsy heads back (by car!) to Montpelier and on Monday John, Fran and I head out toward Toronto.
Biking here yesterday was wonderful. Great road, beautiful scenary, friendly people. The picture on the upper left illustrates "waiting until the cows come home" at an abandoned farm along highway 37 outside Ogdensburg! If John LaRosa was here he would love the Antique Boat museum in Clayton. I'll try to send article. Corinne you would be proud of my technology usage--am on a Think Pad with my internet connection through a cell phone. Thank God for free minutes on weekends! Love to all.
Lexical speculations: Going belly up comes from the fact that all dead frogs on the side of the road seem to be lying on their backs! How about "until the cows come home?"

What's Betsy got in her hand?

Ogdensburg or Bust (Photo of a small stone library in the town of Morristown

Not a really long ride today but a hard one! The full distance we rode against a strong steady wind. We followed the St Lawrence on routes 131 (magnificent) and 37.
The Saint Lawrence! As we ride I learn a little geography and history but more so discover how shallow my own knowledge is and how many pockets of ignorance of both disciplines I have. The Saint Lawrence is now a "sea way" but was once a river. It is now navigable to the great lakes. But when did all of this happen? I've now learned it was in the 40s and 50s. Work began right after World War 2 I am told so I guess that puts it during the Truman/Eisenhower years. But it must have been planned by Roosevelt or even before. Dredging and locks changed the landscape forever. Whole villages were inundated and disappeared. Looking at charts of the river it presents a complicated warren of islands, some Canadian, mostly on the US side the lines being drawn during the War of 1812. This makes for a very porus border between our countries and the monitoring of traffic across international bridges would only catcha very small bit of the potential illicit traffic.
Stopped in the delightful village of Waddington today. Waddington is a truncated version of its former self, part of it having been swallowed up when the sea way was formed. But the village still boasts a post-office, library, IGA, hardware store, beachfront, and a wonderful pastry shop where we stopped for scrumptious treats and lively conversation. There we met Noah, nine year old boy inventor. A newspaper clipping on the wall recognized Noah for his invention of an herbicide applicator. He wants to be a farmer or inventor when he grows up, ambitions evidenced in the clipping from the local paper and the John Deere cap on Noah's head. Noah asked us if we get bored riding. Betsy said no, there's always something unexpected cropping up and to prove her point pulled out our camera and showed him the claw she found on the side of the road just outside the village. Inquisitive Noah thought that was very cool.
It's interesting to note how undeveloped and largely uninhabited the U.S. side of the St. Lawrence is and gazing across the the water to see so many cities and signs of industry on the Canadian side. I guess it's true what they say about 90% of the Canadians living within 20 miles of the U.S. border. On our side, we seek the warmer climes of our own country and head south and west. Evidence of decay of what must have been beautiful cities in their prime: Malone, Massena, Ogdensburg.
Lexical questions of the day. Where does the expression "belly up" come from?