Yertle the Turtle Catches a Tailwind!

Trail section at right in western Ontario.

You know how hiking folks eventually "acquire" a trail name. Mine is Yertle the Turtle. It came to me a couple of days back as I biked along a country road in Ontario and 4 "twenty something" cyclists zoomed by me like I was standing still on their ultra light bikes. Yes, Yertle fits, slow but steady. Have put in a 78 and 72 mile days recently. It takes me a long time but, so far, I've gotten there.

I've written so much the last few days. I'll save it for the book! Suffice to say I've met wonderful people all along the way. About half my meals have been offered to me and I've been camping out since the Enid experience. The night before last I experienced my own 4th of July in the comfort of my tent. I was awakened about 1:00 a.m. to an incredible thunder storm. It made me wonder if the stays on my tent were fiber glass or aluminum. And how do lightning rods work anyway? The rain pounded the tent , but the next morning I happily discovered the inside to be nearly completely dry.

Getting back to the U.S. at Sarnia was a bit of a challenge. There's only one place to cross the Saint Clair River that forms the boundary with Michigan. That way involved crossing a bridge approached by a restricted access highway: no pedestrians, no bikes! I had to hitch. Removed all panniers and my front and rear bags in hopes of making the bike easier to load should anyone stop. Traffic was light and I needed a truck or a van to load the bike. After about 20 minutes a van pulled up. George and Sue, two truckers by trade, were kind enough to give me a lift. They had crossed over earlier in the day to stock up on booze before heading south to Texas to start a new life. They had not much good to say about Michigan--especially the economy, the weather, and the attitudes. They own their own Freightliner and can operate out of almost anywhere. They live, for the next two weeks anyway, in Capac where I was headed. They offered to give me a lift there but I nobly :) declined to keep the trip honest! In the end the gave me a big box of Planter's peanut brittle (the best, they say) and I took their picture before parting in Port Huron. Nice folks!
Many, many vignettes such as above to share. I love, love, love the midwestern accents. I've met man Marges of Fargo!

I, like other travelers have been, am amazed by the generosity people have for strangers--0nce they feel safe. Oftentimes you need to make the first move--play with the dog, ask for directions, tell them where you're headed--and then people have a real desire to be kind. Speaking of kindness--I realize it was lacking, entirely, in my comments about Enid. While what I said about my disappointment with the accommodations was true, Enid herself was delightful--eccentric, but delightful. And eccentricity is what makes people interesting. But to set the record straight, Enid's accomodations would probably delight some who are looking for something "off beat"--and in this world of franchises that is not to be undervalued-- and she herself was engaging and kind. So, from Mr. Spandex Smarty pants--my apologies, Enid.

Writing today from a library in Brown City, Michigan. Headed toward Bay City and Luddington over the next few days. Camille and Cyndi, I will call as I get closer. Mr. (or Mrs.) tech assistant, thanks for the advice. I love your comments. Cally, only one more day!!! Laura and Emily--eat those blueberries and raspberries. Hi Kyle and Luke. Yes, Brenda, you could try a leash! Chris stay in touch. Betsy, I love you. My love to all. Lowell. p.s. The Michigan skeeters are bigger and hungrier than their eastern cousins!